Shane Magee, the restaurants Irish-born co-owner, describes Places! Bistro as a place that attracts sophisticated patrons as well as "ordinary" people.

"It's a dinner crowd, and a discerning crowd," he said.

The bar scene, he concludes is practically nonexistent here, largely because the bar seats only a few patrons.

The servers – many of them drama students – are friendly and low-key, without interfering with the romance of the evening.

When we inquired about two a la carte entrees (and perhaps the most time consuming to eat) – the Cornish game hen and the tilapia – our server asked whether we were planning to go to the theater.

We were not, but that made little difference in the service. Water glasses continued to be filled, finished plates were removed, and new, hot ones arrived with the speed of a smooth-running machine.

Our meal, which included warm pita bread and two exceptional appetizers – beef carpaccio and a salmon cake drizzled with hollandaise sauce – could hardly be typecast as lowly bistro fare.

It was complete with a range of tastes, from sharpcapers and comfortingly sweet potatoes and saffron rice to the refined ending: a trio of homemade sorbets and a light-as-air "opera" cake made of layered sponge cake.

The farm-raised tilapia was a model example of the eco-friendly and non-fussy menu. Described as "stuffed" on the menu, the fish had a filling that was a smooth blend of spinach and crabmeat. It arrived topped with a bright nest of julienned vegetables.

I uncharacterically tried the vegetarian dish: several pieces of crusted tofu shaped like playing cards. They were good, served with udon noodles that took on the heady flavors of the ginger and teriyaki sauce.

Still, it might have been too simple compared to the other selections, which included a pan-seared salmon filet served with saffron rice (ditto with the tilapia) and topped with baby shrimp and a mild and smooth tomato brandy cream sauce.

The menu is not at all at odds with the tasteful setting of the old farmhouse complex, which includes a restored barn housing the ensemble theater and award-winning Bachman Gardens.

Much like a stage, Places! is deceptive in its size. From its entryway, the restaurant expands into three small dining rooms on two levels with hardwood floors and original fireplaces.

I dined in the "lower" room. Which had a few café tables and a parquet floor that gave new meaning to the old theater term "treading the boards." It captured every footfall and added to the general feeling of openness about the room.

However, we soon got used to distractions – not to mention the oversized plates – with a meal that was excellent from start to finish.

Whether you dine alone, or with a group or a date, Places! is accommodating, but never boring. In fact, it might be the only restaurant I know of where you can find actors at a nearby table discussing such topics as blocking (onstage movement) and script conferences.

Speaking about his new venture, Magee evokes the restaurant's casual but intimate setting. He talks of "relationships" when he speaks of the staff and "personal pride issues" when it comes to plate presentations. "I was taught that if it looks good, that's half the battle," he said. Return